28 July 2024

Multiple Exposure Raw with Nikon Z Cameras and MergeRaw

For many years, Nikon DSLRs have allowed photographers to create raw files in camera from multiple exposures. From what I've used, the higher end bodies allowed up to 10 exposures, and lower end bodies might have a lower number. This is generally something to consider as creative functionality — working with individual images as layers in an editing program allows for the most control from initial raw conversion to the finished photo. From a creative perspective, there's something fun about trying to get closer to a finished photo in the field. With the output as a raw file, lots of processing control remains afterward.

With the Z cameras, Nikon has taken away the ability to save a raw file from the multiple exposures. Only JPEG is allowed. I've read that this might be a way for Nikon to avoid dealing with lens correction profiles. If multiple exposures are shot with multiple focal lengths on the same lens, or even with entirely different lenses, which correction profile should be applied? Perhaps something in the internal processing pipeline prevents holding and saving multiple exposures as a raw file. With the D850, multiple exposures are disabled in Live View, for some unknown reason. Some Z bodies allow saving a TIFF instead of a JPEG, but the only gain is the lack of JPEG compression. Image settings such as sharpening and white balance are locked in, and the bit depth is still 8 bits. Z bodies that support HEIF do not support HEIF from multiple exposures.

As of mid-2024, Z bodies from the Z30 up to the Z9 all have this limitation. If the photographer has white balance, contrast, and sharpening dialed in, the resulting JPEG handles reasonable processing. But it's not a raw file.

I would like to see Nikon bring back the ability to save a raw file from multiple exposures, and I'm not alone, as that link shows. If it's a question of lens corrections, the solution should be obvious — disable them, or allow the photographer to choose how they are applied. The problem with locked-in lens corrections is a topic for another day.

Earlier this year, I found a reference to MergeRaw by Ryan Mack. This is a Lightroom plugin primarily designed to deal with pixel-shifted images for better output resolution, and multiple exposures for noise averaging. The plugin is flexible enough to also bring back some of the Nikon Z lost multiple exposure functionality. MergeRaw generates a DNG from multiple raw files.

With all that said, what is my use for multiple exposures? I like to play with focus shifting — the common scenario is where I want a foreground object and background object to both be in focus, but without going through a full focus stacking routine. I want to keep the out-of-focus character from both photos. This can create a photo that is simultaneously sharp and soft. Trying to achieve this without a tripod can be an exercise in frustration, but sometimes it works beautifully. Credit to Birna Rørslett, who has done similar work that inspired me to try the technique.

As an aside, the obvious question — why would I need a raw file for something that is often flawed? Why wouldn't a JPEG be enough? I want the extra precision, and that's reason enough for me.

Let's look at the merging options available with MergeRaw. I used Disabled for the Alignment Mode.

MergeRaw options

First, the two input photos. I shot these on a tripod and used the camera's focus shift function to shoot nearly 100 frames. My intent was to process a full focus stack, but while working on that I liked the look of just these two frames, the result of which I'll include at the end.

Foreground exposure (click to view larger)

Background exposure (click to view larger)

Exposure Weighted Average (click to view larger)

Exposure Weighted Average - Blurs Moving Subjects. This looks like what I would get from the in-camera multiple exposure output. Some Nikon cameras have additional blending modes, but I almost always use Average. "Blurs Moving Subjects" is just what I want, if I consider the change in focus to be a moving subject!

Average - Fix Color Artifacts (click to view larger)

Average - Fix Color Artifacts from Moving Blown Highlights. There is no real change compared to Exposure Weighted Average. This scene doesn't have the issues that this setting would correct.

Average - Use First Frame (click to view larger)

Average - Use First Frame Where Anything Moves. This worked exactly how it should work. The result is almost identical to the original first frame. Again, the scene is not suited to this setting.

Median (click to view larger)

Median - Removes Moving Subjects Across All Images. This setting is what you'd get from loading the exposures into Photoshop as layers, converting the stack to a Smart Object, and setting its blend mode to Median. The usual example to showcase this technique is multiple photos of a city street — the median blend mode eliminates all moving cars and pedestrians, making the street look eerily empty. Again, this scene is not suited to this setting.

Brightest Pixels (click to view larger)

Brightest Pixels - For Star Trails or Light Painting. The result is interesting, but not useful for this scene. I don't have a current use for this, but it is undoubtedly useful for night photographers!

Processed in HeliconFocus (click to view larger)

Photos combined with HeliconFocus. I worked on this a month earlier, and it's my choice of output for this scene. Keeping the background free of an out-of-focus halo looks better, and I like the shift from soft to sharp between the flower and the background. That transition doesn't always work well, but the subject positions in this scene lended themselves to a clean transition. I did some manual masking work to make sure the background image came through cleanly.

18 October 2022

19 September 2022

Bring Back the Lever

Nikon's next retro camera should have a winding lever. Imagine a Zf that looks so much like an F3 that it even has the lever. The lever will serve no purpose, and will not be needed to operate the camera…unless you adjust custom setting CRM114, which controls how the winding lever works. You can set it to re-cock the shutter (even if the camera has no physical shutter). In essence, a lock that engages after every shot. Perhaps the lever could affect exposure compensation, or exposure lock. Pull the lever out partway to activate the spot meter, or take us back to the 1960s, and let the lever act as the on-off switch. No matter what, operating the lever should feel as much as possible like the F3's lever. In fact, I can see another custom setting: lever tension! At least three adjustments: no film loaded, thin base, and thick base.

Next on my list of necessary accessories is a battery pack that unlocks motor drive capability. With up to 30 frames per second of breakneck shooting speed, amateur photographers won't want to go without the ZD-4, which takes eight AA batteries (not included).

Finally, if you want to store a lot of images and not worry about a single point of failure, consider adding the ZF-4 to your shopping cart. This bulk memory card back bolts onto the Zf and has slots for 32 CFexpress cards, 16 on either side. Play it safe with 32 GB cards for 1 TB of storage, or record the ultimate real-time time lapse footage with 4 TB cards for 128 TB of storage (this much storage is needed for up to 30 minutes of footage using the newest high bit-rate, high bit-depth raw codec that requires a poorly written, slow plugin to transcode to something usable).

30 July 2022

Nikon FTZ Compatibility

 Most F mount lenses will fit the FTZ and FTZ II adapters, although there are exceptions. The K rings are very tight, and I haven't attempted to force them on. Pre-AI lenses from prior to 1977 will generally fit, but the very oldest Nikkors may not mount.

Nikkor-S Auto 5cm f/2 (Pre-AI) with deep aperture ring

Nikkors with deep or long aperture rings, which date to about 1959 and 1960, will almost mount on the FTZ adapters. The aperture ring bumps into the housing around the F mount on the adapter, with perhaps a millimeter of missing clearance. The aperture ring on the Nikkor-S 5cm f/2 is easy to fix, but not from a collector's standpoint. The threaded hole on the ring, seen above, takes a set screw that engages the diaphragm. With the screw removed, the aperture ring can be unscrewed with several turns and is ready for retooling.

“Retooling…I’ll retool you!”
Frank Shirley

Nikkor-S Auto 5cm f/2 (Pre-AI) with shortened aperture ring

With the aperture ring removed, the lens is mountable on the FTZ. This is worth testing, just to make sure the bayonet pieces and any other protruding elements have space. A few minutes with a rotary tool or disc sander (the disc sander worked beautifully) will reduce the length of the aperture ring. With the aperture ring reattached, there are no issues mounting the lens to the FTZ adapter.

14 June 2022

Gardiner, Montana, from 2010

 

The Gardner River flows through Gardner Canyon, near Gardiner, Montana, July 2010. (Photo by Daniel Binkard)

45th Parallel sign along the Gardner River near Gardiner, Montana, July 2010. (Photo by Daniel Binkard)

Roosevelt Arch in Gardiner, Montana, July 2010. (Photo by Daniel Binkard)

Gardner River near Gardiner, Montana, July 2010. (Photo by Daniel Binkard)

Gardner River near Gardiner, Montana, July 2010. (Photo by Daniel Binkard)

Gardner River near Gardiner, Montana, July 2010. (Photo by Daniel Binkard)

45th Parallel sign along the Gardner River near Gardiner, Montana, July 2010. (Photo by Daniel Binkard)

12 May 2022

Perspective

 

Martini glass, May 2013. (Photo by Daniel Binkard)

Martini glass, May 2013. (Photo by Daniel Binkard)

Martini glass, May 2013. (Photo by Daniel Binkard)

08 May 2022

Processing Workflow in Lightroom Classic

Here is an example of how I processed a photo in Adobe Lightroom Classic. In this example, I pull the saturation to zero and work on pure tonality, before finishing with color touches. I use a single mask with manual adjustments to work on the sky.

1. Starting point, no adjustments beyond sharpening.

2. White balance from “as shot” to “cloudy.”

3. Saturation to zero.

4. Exposure adjustment for overall brightness. (Brightness added.)

5. Overall contrast adjustment. (Contrast added.)

6. Highlight adjustment. Because the sky is so bright and lacks detail, I am paying particular attention to how the lit trees are affected. (Brightness added.)

7. Shadow adjustment. (Shadows darkened.)

8. White (extreme highlights) adjustment. Again, paying attention to how the trees and ridge are affected and letting the sky get too bright. (Brightness added.)

9. Black (extreme shadows) adjustment. (Shadows darkened.)

10. Clarity (local contrast) adjustment. (Slight increase.)

11. Saturation reset to see what overall scene looks like in color.

12. Sky selected with automatic mask and fine tuned with brush, then darkened with a combination of exposure, highlights, and whites.

13. Saturation and vibrance increased for final effect.
Evening light on Steamboat Butte at Chadron State Park, May 2022. (Photo by Daniel Binkard)
There is more that could be done to finish this photo. For example, I could warm the colors on the shadow side of the butte to further tie it to the sunlit trees.